Seydou Keita Photography

Upon a recent inter­view I am in the mid­dle of fin­ish­ing for this web­site, the artist told me she is inspired by the pat­terns in Sey­dou Keita’s pho­tographs.  So I looked in to Keita’s work and found beau­ti­ful black and white pho­tographed por­traits of Malian peo­ple in amaz­ing pat­terned cloth­ing often times set against a clash­ing pat­terned back­ground.  A self taught Pho­tog­ra­pher from Bamako, Mali, Keita started out by pho­tograph­ing his fam­ily mem­bers and then on to neigh­bor­hood peo­ple with a cam­era he was given by an uncle…

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I found this short descrip­tion by Keita, in his own words speak­ing of his rela­tion­ship with photography:

“I started to pho­to­graph in 1945 in Bamako. I am self taught. I had a 6 x 9 cam­era that one of my uncles had brought me back from Sene­gal. He had given to me also money to buy film. It all started like that. Hon­estly, it’s a craft that I prac­ticed the bet­ter that I could: I was really in love with photography.

At the begin­ning I pho­tographed my fam­ily. Some atti­tudes worked, some oth­ers not. I really had a bad start: peo­ple moved and I prob­a­bly trem­bled myself. When print­ing, they all looked like skele­tons. You see: I was really under-trained. I was ask­ing my client the money for the print that I was doing at Pierre Garnier’s or at Mountaga’s lab. He taught me how to print. If the print didn’t come out well, I was into prob­lems; clients were very angry, but they were the ones that moved!

In 1948 Moun­taga admit­ted that I was qual­i­fied enough to lend me over his dark­room. I was doing all the pro­cess­ing, but in black and white only. Colour was around of course, but you had to send the films to France and any­way, I didn’t like it. For me it was the black and white that was the right thing. In those days, there were 4 pho­tog­ra­phers in BAMAKO: Issouf, Bound­yana, Moun­taga and myself. Malik Sidibe came after­wards. We were all doing por­traits, but peo­ple used to say that my “cards” were the best. I had a stamp that I put on all my prints.

In 1949, I bought a view cam­era and started with 5 x 7 neg­a­tives. I was doing con­tact prints, that’s why I pre­ferred 5 x 7. I had pinned on the walls of the stu­dio var­i­ous sam­ples of my work: men or women in bust, alone or by two, or even groups up to 6 peo­ple, fam­i­lies and so on. The clients were telling me: we want to be pho­tographed like this, you see? And I was doing it. But some­times I was chang­ing for a posi­tion that looked bet­ter. I was the one to decide in the last and I was never mis­tak­ing. It took only a few min­utes, I shot one neg­a­tive, never more. Many peo­ple were com­ing, buy on Sat­ur­days, it was crowded: peo­ple were queue­ing: all sorts— shop­keep­ers, office clerks; even the pres­i­dent of the Repub­lic came. I was doing the print­ing overnight and the spot­ting in the morn­ing just before the clients would come and pick up their portrait.

With the 5 x 7 cam­era, the first back­drop that I used has been my bed cover. After, I changed them every two/ three years or so. That’s how now I can know the dates of the images. Some­times the back­ground worked really well with the clothes, spe­cially for women. But it was sheer luck.

In those days, the cul­ture of the ances­tors was not so strong as it used to be. City dwellers dressed up like Euro­peans, very influ­enced by the French behav­ior. But not many peo­ple could afford to dress like that. At the stu­dio, I had three dif­fer­ent Euro­pean suits with tie, shirt, shoes, hat, as well as some acces­sories: foun­tain pen, plas­tic flow­ers, radio set or tele­phone that I lent to customers.

For ladies, the dresses had not deeply changed yet. West­ern gar­ments like skirts have been in fash­ion only in the late six­ties. Women would come with their large dress and I arranged it: the more it was spread, the hap­pier they were. The out­fits had to show out in the pic­ture: jew­els were impor­tant as well as hands, long thin fin­gers, women were very con­cerned by that, they were signs of ele­gance and beauty.

I never met any for­eign pho­tog­ra­pher. I never went out and I didn’t know their pho­tographs as well. One could not find here any French or Amer­i­can mag­a­zines. The only pub­li­ca­tion avail­able was the Manufrance catalogue.

I was work­ing just as well with nat­ural light as with arti­fi­cial light. Some cus­tomers would pre­fer “night pho­tographs” because they were paler, but I pre­ferred nat­ural light. They really liked my pho­tographs because they were really sharp and also because they appre­ci­ated their set up. All that I know is: my pic­tures were really good.

When I look at them today, they have not changed a bit, they didn’t even change in color. I always worked with the same cam­era until 1977 and I kept all the neg­a­tives: they are all here: cus­tomers could reorder! None ever com­plained, oth­er­wise they would have not returned.

If you like my work, you’ve got to know why. I know that many of my pho­tographs are excel­lent and that’s why you like them. I stopped pho­tograph­ing when color pho­tog­ra­phy took over. Peo­ple like it now but machines are doing the work. Many peo­ple call them­selves pho­tog­ra­phers nowa­days, but they don’t know anything.”


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